Unexplored Italy. We continue our exploration of the unique areas of the Apennine Peninsula.
Ciminna is a small commune in the province of Palermo in Sicily. It is home to just over 4,000 people. But the beauty and richness of its history are not inferior to other, larger administrative centers. The municipality has its patron – Saint Vitus (editor’s note: Christian Saint, a Roman Martyr of the early period of Christianity, who was killed in the year 303 a. C.). Every year a mass and a great street celebration are held in his honor on the first Sunday of September.
One can get to Ciminna by different means of transportation – one’s own or rented car (less than 1 hour drive), or a public bus from Palermo (95 minutes ride). By train (47 or 50 minutes ride) from Palermo to Montemaggiore Belsito a village km. 13 far from Ciminna, which is reachable by bus or taxi (also if with much higher time and cost).
Ciminna
In addition, there are some tours organized by local Tourist Operators which bring visitors to Ciminna and other beautiful and charming villages nearby rich in art, architecture, traditions and amazing food, with comfortable buses departing from Palermo, Trapani, Catania, and many other towns and tourist resorts.
During the travel you will enjoy an incomparable pleasure. The panorama is amazing, one can forget to be on an island!
In fact, our trip from Trapani to Ciminna was granted by a comfortable private tour by bus. The road was like a fairy tale: picturesque mountain landscapes covered by forests and wild rocks alternated through the window, the sky was decorated by the extraordinary beauty of the clouds with no sign of pollution were the roof to small villages embedded on the hilltops and with the roofs gilded by the Sicilian sun… Time passed quickly and imperceptibly.
Mother Church (Chiesa Madre)
Like many Italian small towns, Ciminna is situated on a mountainous area, and every movement here is a descent-ascent. From the height one can see wonderful views of the mountain valley. It’s like a colorful mosaic, where different shades find their place in the landscape.
Locals will proudly tell you about any historical time connected with this place. Whether it is the period of Saracens, with all the archaeological ruins of the early period, which begins the history of Ciminna. Or subsequent stages: the capture of Sicily by the Romans, the reign of the Arabs and the Norman reign, flourishing and characterized by the abolition of the feudal system, etc.
Residents of Ciminna always took an active part in historical events, especially during the Risorgimento (nineteenth century). One of the outstanding heroes of that period was known as Luigi La Porta, a great patriot. He is called the heart and soul of the revolutionary movement, which promoted the unity of the nation. The memory of him is still alive today.
The rich historical and cultural heritage of Ciminna is preserved and can be visited in the Museum of the City Hall, the Hospital of the Holy Spirit, the Library Board Hall and the 8 Catholic churches of the village.
But once this place had only a few scattered buildings around the castle. In the testimony, written in Greek and dated 1097, “Chiminna” was referred to as the farm.
The film, for which one can give one’s life
In the 20th century, the film “The Leopard” (“Il Gattopardo”), which was shot here in 1963, brought Ciminna a great popularity. Ciminna still enjoys the benefits of that time when it was the center of the historical-filmic world! It attracts writers, historians and film critics, movie lovers, who want to wander through the winding streets and peek into the places where the story was developed.
Photo: the shot from the film “the Leopard”. A little procession on the Donnafugata square during the plebiscite
The film is based on the eponymous classic novel of the Sicilian aristocrat Giuseppe di Lampedusa (editor’s note: the full name of the author is Giuseppe Tomasi, Prince of Lampedusa). The story of the life and the decline of an aristocratic Sicilian family in the 60’s of the XIX century, the time of the Italian Risorgiment, are told in the large-scale historical drama directed by Luchino Visconti.
Photo: the shot from the film “the Leopard”. The daughter of the mayor Angelica Sedara
This unique film offers the opportunity to cast a glance at the Sicily of that time. The lost world, captured in one of the crucial moments of transition from one regime to another, is shown through the prism of personal experiences of the characters.
The facade of the building in front of the Mother Church is covered by set designers, transforming it into the Prince’s Palace
In 1963 at the Cannes film festival the movie was awarded the “Golden palm”. It is now considered to be one of the pinnacles of world cinema.
The shooting of the “Leopard” took place in Sicily, except for the interior scenes in the castle of Donnafugata. The halls of the Palazzo Chigi in Ariccia, near Rome, were rebuilt especially for them.
Photo: Francesco Lumiani, the representative of the press office DAM, and Giuseppe Cusmano during the visit of the exhibition
By the way, Martin Marcantonio Luciano Scorsese, the American film director, producer and screenwriter of Italian origin, winner of many awards of the film industry, including many Oscar, defined the film “The Leopard” «one of those for which one can give one’s life».
Photo: The dress one of the main characters of “the Leopard” saved from the filming
The museum, where you can trace the entire photo story of the film, was built to commemorate this momentous event for Ciminna. The Museum dedicated to the film “the Leopard” includes over 300 photographs telling about the 90 days of filming!
A Russian touch to the story of “the Leopard”
It is noteworthy that the main role in this large-scale historical epic could be played by Russian actor! Visconti originally had planned to propose this role either to Lawrence Olivier, or to the Soviet actor Nikolai Cherkasov, people’s artist of USSR, laureate of the Lenin and five Stalin prizes.
The set of “the Leopard” 50 years later
The book “Ciminna – H. K. of “the Leopard” 50 years later – 1963-2013” (“Ciminna – il set de “Il Gattopardo” 50 anni dopo – 1963-2013”) was published in August 2014. Financial support for the publication was provided by the Association For The Protection And Promotion Of The Cultural And Environmental Heritage Of Ciminna.
The author, Giuseppe Cusmano, asks in his book: «What is left of the “Leopard” Ciminna 50 years after the last taken picture?». And he is sorry to say that «besides the Mother Church (Chiesa Madre), the mayor’s Residence (casa del Sindaco) and the City Hall (Municipio), almost nothing has been preserved», with the exception of some fragments of the buildings.
However, as Mr. Cusmano noted in the conversation, even these historic commemorative certificates from the life of Ciminna are enough to look back over more than fifty years, and to feel the spirit of that time.
Photo: Giuseppe Cusmano – author of the book «Ciminna – H. K. of “the Leopard” 50 years later»
Furthermore, “The Leopard” is a great opportunity to re-discover another beautiful area of Italy – Ciminna. With all the richness of its cultural and historical monuments, with its mild climate and picturesque landscapes, friendly and hospitable people with a perspective on life that is different from residents of other regions of the Apennine Peninsula… in short all what fifty years ago fascinated Luchino Visconti.
Elena Buldakova, Ciminna, Sicily
Translated from Russian by Daria Shushpanova
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The editorial board expresses its gratitude to DAM (Distretto Mestieri Antichi Sapori e Tradizioni Popolari) of SICILY for the opportunity to participate in an Educational tour throughout Western Sicily.
